Showing posts with label Fall. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fall. Show all posts
Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Beaverated Again (sort of)

By now, you're probably all familiar with this video, since the blog you're reading is named after it.
But it's good fun to watch again (and again, and again, and...)

Last weekend was Labor Day Weekend, better known as Beaverfest, and as usual hundreds of paddlers flocked to the western Adirondacks to get some Beaver. It also happened to be the 6 year anniversary of my rebirth as the Beaverator Kid, and while I didn't paddle the Taylorville section this weekend, I'll be making my way back there in the coming weeks.

More importantly, I stepped it up in a big way elsewhere.
If you're lazy and/or don't care to hear me describe the incredible awesomeness of the weekend, feel free to skip to the bottom paragraphs which contain the morals!
Staph is no fun, notice the size difference and the red streaks
 Last year, I had a staph infection on my knee that made walking difficult, and the idea of shoving it into a thighbrace unfathomable. It was the first Beaverfest I hadn't paddled in 7 years. I spent the weekend surrounded by friends and strangers alike running the river...over and over and over again. I was miserable, but I took a bunch of great photos and determined that no matter what I'd be healthy the following year.

And so I found myself here a year later:
Scouting out the first third of the enormous spillway at the Moshier section.
In years past this was something I had paddled quickly by, barely glancing at it, certain I'd never run it. Every year, more and more people run it, but in the relative crowd that shows up for the rest of the river, only a handful of people step up.

Mostly because of this...
Ben Schott sliding by.
 Yeah, that's a massive roostertail. It stems from a ledge/rock that juts up about 2 feet out of the bedrock right at the bottom-middle of the slide. There's a pretty solid amount of flow that crashes straight into it, making a normally large and ominous slide downright intimidating. 
This provides reasonable perspective
 Surprisingly, I bucked up and ran it. It took a little while, but after watching a number of people miss their boof and sloppily bounce down and still making it to the right too early, I remembered the wise words of Kate Daniel: "What could possibly go wrong?" And so I dropped in, nailing a boof and waiting to make the move to the right, finding it surprisingly smooth.

Stoked on finally firing up one of the biggest drops in NY, we headed down for an eventful run down the normal stretch. An unnamed paddler that looked vaguely familiar to me and may or may not have taught me everything I know took a stout beating at the second drop, followed by a swim. Then another anonymous individual took a brutal hit to the face in one of the no-name rapids.
The beaverator tradition continues!
Unfazed, we continued downriver with a couple more (justifiable) swims and 2 hot laps down Moshier Falls for me. It was the first year I really felt in control coming through the pushy series and into the boof.

The boof!
The Eagle followed, where Catherine got to practice her boof, and others sneaked in and out of eddies between KONY Racers charging down the course.

Catherine was one of the few paddlers to remain focused at the last drop
The following day, Taylor decided that buying a Beaverfest sticker and putting it on the back of his car wasn't enough, so he passed up an awesome time on the Raquette to paddle the Taylorville section (again).

And by awesome time on the Raquette, I mean it must have been interesting to watch, since I botched a line at Colton, requiring me to reset in the eddy above the boof and then battle a submerged rock at the bottom before ultimately rolling and scrambling into an eddy. Dylan seemed to be thinking twice after I said "it's not that hard, watch me..."

Dylan also managed to not be too distracted... coincidence? 
We continued quickly down to the Tubs. Dylan had a clean line, and I headed up to run it myself, confident in my past experience.

It should go without saying that I was overly confident.

Dylan with a sweet line
Plugging into the not so sweet line
I don't know how long I was in there, but I thought about swimming a couple times. Then I rolled up and saw where I was. With a pillow of water pushing me back towards the curtain and an swirling current securing me deep in the pocket, I realized no matter how bad things seemed in the boat, I didn't want to go swimming here.

After getting violently tossed, having my paddle snatched from one hand, and getting bowstalled underwater, I finally rolled up and managed to draw my way out before styling the second drop.

Dylan followed me down Particle Accelerator to continue the carnage. His right hand was totally shredded, but I think he got away without stitches. Catherine saved him the carry out by joining me for the remainder of the run, and all in all, the day was a success.

So here's the moral:
Even though I styled my lines on the Moshier, I feel that the beatdown and my ability to surf out of it speaks more to my skills as a paddler. Doug Ammons states that "The real measure of skill is not what you can paddle in optimum circumstances" but "what you can do when the worst happens and you're at rock bottom." While I was far from rock bottom (only figuratively speaking) I can at least say my ability to adapt quickly to a plan b or c has evolved greatly since the Beaverator Incident. No matter what class of paddler I become, paddling rivers I started out on will always hold a special place in my heart for the sense of renewed perspective and growth I can find on them.

Bonus moral:
Getting worked sucks, but it makes you a better paddler. Try it sometime.

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Double Whammy!

Tandem bridge walking, it's that big...

Two rather big developments in this post:
1. I finally broke my first paddle
2. I've reached the halfway point of my novel.

So first, let me just say that I've had my $170 AT for 3-4 years now. I can't say that I intentionally mistreated it, but I certainly didn't baby it either. But hey, everyone uses their paddle as a baseball bat every once in a while, right? ....right?

Ok, so I didn't ever do that, but I did toss it on shore, use it as a depth meter, and crank really huge boofs with it.

Even when boofing might not be advised...
-Brian Murphy Photo
As those of you who have paddled with me know, it was really only a matter of time. The blades had been worn down at least an inch on the edges, and sometime last summer it started sinking in the water. It had a lovely tendency to fill with water and then leak out on dry clothes.  At some point I had this fixed with a little duct tape, but at Gauleyfest this year the problem returned. I noticed a little more flex than usual and began avoiding more committing runs (except the Oswegatchie, that's just too good to miss). In the end though, it happened on one of the rivers that gave it the most abuse.

Ahh, Fowlersville, moments before the break.

The paddle finally gave out on the Bottom Moose. It more or less folded at the joint on impact at Fowlersville. In this case, I think the tuck did more harm than my typical plug, but I guess we'll never know. Either way, I was glad it happened here instead of further down. For one, I was closer to the cars so I could drive shuttle if necessary, and two, I wasn't halfway down Powerline or Crystal trying to C1.

Not so tasty... Note the "reshaped" blades...
Fortunately for me, Jim was too lazy to take his breakdown out of his boat from our last paddling trip, and he had it assembled by the time I could hand off my broken paddle. It flexed a lot, but at this point it probably had more surface area on the blades than mine did. I finished out the day enjoying the unseasonably late warmth with good friends and a few new ones.

One of my favorite views from one of my favorite rapids. With my favorite breakdown paddle, for that matter, too.
Crystal, Bottom Moose
Ok, now for the boring part.

I just reached the halfway point in my novel, and because all of you are such faithful readers, you get a little sneak peak, inspired by the Moose!

Cobb was already sliding before he realized what Sam had talked him into doing. He had nodded and smiled and laughed his way up the steep slope to the narrow plateau and tightened the back of his seat so he was snug in the bright plastic. And now he was flying down the ocean of pine needles, rocketing through the gauntlet of tree trunks. He leaned forward and reached across the bow of his boat, minimizing the surface area left to slam into a tree branch. He breathed the soft scent of crushed pine needles. The rush of air and soft shifting of plastic along the loamy soil rang in his ears like an orchestra. In a moment, the dusky blur was blasted into a faint memory by the golden sunlight of the open river. He hung in the air for a moment and remembered those cold car rides wishing he could fly.
He landed in the dark, cool water with a slap that brought his focus back into the present. He grinned. He knew that was only the beginning of the day’s excitement. He began paddling downstream, eager for the next rush of color and sound. Sam landed in the water with a whoop and caught up. They were junkies drifting between the small boulders, looking ahead at the edge of the world, their next fix. Treetops and empty space. The black conveyer belt before them flowed onwards, indifferent to the blank space ahead. A yellow leaf drifted listlessly over the edge. Cobb followed, falling, accelerating, disappearing. He popped up in the foam and swirling pieces of driftwood at the bottom and paddled into an eddy. Sam followed soon after, and Cobb counted ten mississippis before he emerged from the grasp of the white noise, grinning. And then they were off again, weaving their laughter between boulders and over more horizons.
Cobb and Sam never once stopped to scout ahead and find the route. This was their run. They had a responsibility to know where the big holes were and at what level the ledges were still ok to paddle. Together they had over 200 runs on this section alone. It was their training grounds. Some might say their confidence was justified. The one rapid that still made Cobb’s heart rise to his throat was Crystal. There was something about that coliseum of sandy-orange rock and the cascading whitewater within it that resonated with his soul. Interacting with something like that never came as easy as he expected. Instead, it created a challenge that left him breathless, unnerved, and wishing it would never end.

 I also think the very middle word of the target word count (25,000 of 50,000) being "Rum" is important to mention. Some might say the entire novel centers around alcohol. Based on word counts, they would be correct.

And now the bonus material!

I managed to get outside between the terrible weather, paddling, and writing like a madman. I even got the family to come with. Well, some of them...

We spent some time hiking into a few drops on the West Branch of the Oswegatchie, which looks like a lot of fun, but also has a lot of flatwater. Here are a few shots.



 The biggest reasons to try and get along with fishermen:
There are more of them than there are us
They have more influence on access to rivers
They know about lots of sweet waterfalls we might not

Sweet waterfalls like this...


























I found a piece of ice that looked a lot like Vermont, so I had Nicole snap a picture of me "In" an "Icy VT." The trails were all in really good condition and had some pretty sweet views at the end. They'd make some good picnicking destinations, and they're pretty easy to get to. I found all of them with directions here! 


Sunday, October 9, 2011

Escaping the Fake Empires


Every once in a while, I like to leave. The title of this post comes from Ryan Lewis' cover "Fake Empires" where he sings: "We're half awake in fake empires." It's easy to get caught in the empires of advertising and insincerity, so I escape. This time it was to the Southern Adirondack Region, where I spent the night in my hammock on the North shore of Piseco lake.

But first, I checked out Trenton Falls in (you guessed it!) Trenton, NY. It was on the way, and paddling it sounded like a good way to get arrested, so I figured I'd go check it out on one of the few weekends they allow you to hike in.
Lower Falls- Probably 30 ish feet
and a narrow landing zone.
Lower High Falls- 35-40 ft
This one looks like fun.
Upper High Falls with Mill Dam Falls
45-50 ft for High Falls
I'm not sure why these falls have such limited access, but we were only allowed to walk on a trail parallel to the the dam maintenance road and a few scenic overlooks. I asked one of the volunteers about access, and all he could say was how kind the power company was to let anyone come and view the falls at all. 

I disagree with restricting access the way they have. On days touring isn't allowed, the entire area is enclosed with a chainlink fence and barbed wire. Trenton Falls is an incredible natural attraction and a spectacular display of geology, and should be accessed much more frequently. I'd like to see something similar to the Agers Falls access. A few signs basically state that any activity there is at your own risk and that fast rising water will follow a siren. That should be enough. Rant Over.

After that, I drove down to Piseco Lake and took a hike up to Echo Cliffs. It was a quick trail to the top, with some good elevation gain, and an incredible view of Piseco Lake and the various lakes to the south. The parking lot was packed at the trailhead, and it seemed like everyone was out enjoying the heat of our Indian Summer.

Piseco Lake and Spy Lake in the back left
I met a couple locals at the top and asked them about some of the hikes in the area. As I had expected, T-Lake was the popular vote, so I headed down in the hope of catching a good night's sleep before the 11 mile hike the next day.

When I found the unmarked trailhead, I parked my car and scoped out the closed campground across the road. With a lakeside view and plenty of downed wood for a fire, I strung up the 'mock and settled in with a book.

Dewy morning for the car...
As you can see, there's still plenty of pop in those leaves... 
My humble home for the night, shortly after I woke up.
The Mountain Hardware Lamina Sleeping Bag is
TOASTY
even up in the air in a breezy ENO Hammock,
what a great way to spend the night!
The view from my "window" by the fireplace.

The full moon was sweet, and the campsite was great, even with the mysterious fishing creatures just out of sight. There would be a pitter patter of smallish feet, and then a loud splashing sound, like a fish was trapped in shallow water. I'm guessing raccoons.

In the morning, I packed up and walked across the road...and kept walking until I meet my little buddy Dora
Meet Dora...
She's an explorer!
The top right end of the T of T-lake
And this is the start of what I didn't do this weekend.

T Lake Falls is a 660 foot waterfall located pretty much in the middle of nowhere that takes a 5.5 mile one way hike to get to. It's also off limits to the public as per D.E.C. mandate. So this is where I didn't go, and pictures of the falls that I didn't see...because that would be illegal, or something.
Perfect, I'm alone in prime Bear Country...
The biggest horizon line you'll never see from a kayak...

And suddenly it becomes clear how multiple people could be
deceived by the edge of such a large waterfall and take the
fast route down. (The fast route is unadvisable.)
About a third of the way down, I followed a faint trail to the edge of the waterfall. Backtracking, I followed another faint trail to a steep, moist rock-face that joined up with the bedrock supporting the waterfall. It stuck out, kind of like a step, and it looked like the trail continued on the other side. I passed on this one, and backtracked to the top before descending on a wider switchbacked route. I ended up at the base of one of New York's most impressive waterfalls. 

The Base of T Lake Falls and reflecting
fall foliage from far above 

Oh hey there sunshine...
This is probably only about 3/4 of the whole waterfall.
Photos of the falls come pre-framed
for your convenience...
Looking a looong way back up towards the top...
At least, that's what my "friend" told me.
An offering to the waterfall gods that didn't
get thrown over the edge
Overall, this is an awesome hike not to do. It's not really long and pristine, and it's not an incredible waterfall that most people don't know exists. It's also not really dangerous, or against the law. You should just content yourself to hiking into T-Lake and maybe spending a night at the awful lean-to they have there. Really.

So now that I'm back in the fake empire, I'll leave you with a few lessons I've learned, and a few more I'm still working on.

Lessons I've learned that probably kept me from dying (or just having a really miserable time):
  • Tell someone where you're going and when to expect you back, even though it's annoying and your plans will probably change. Keep them updated as much as possible.
  • People make a lot of noise. Most smaller animals probably think you're a bear. Making lot's of noise will make bear's think you're a bigger bear with bionic arms (aka scary).
  • Make sure you have extra layers for sleepy time, even if you're not cold, they make great pillows.
  • Just because an unmarked trail looks like it sees a lot of traffic doesn't mean it's a shortcut, or that it leads to something cool. It usually means that someone had gullible friends.
  • It's easier to climb up something than to climb back down. Never climb anything that has a reasonable route around it that you can just walk up. Actually, it's better if you just don't climb.
  • Rocks are slippery. Rocks that are wet are really slippery.
  • Campfires make everything better


Lessons that I probably should know by now, but never actually pay attention to:
  • Parents will worry. Always.
  • Not every leaf that rustles outside your sleeping area is a bear. Chillout holmes.
  • Camping/Hiking alone isn't a great idea or even that much fun. Find some pals that don't mind a little sweat and enjoy the outdoors responsibly.
  • Bushwhacking sucks. Bushwhacking parallel to the trail isn't faster, or more efficient... It's just dumb.
  • Seriously, stop climbing shit.
  • Mossy logs are slippery too. Wet, mossy logs are really slippery-er than wet rocks.
  • Bring more water than you think you need. Dehydration is really, seriously, not-f*cking-around, a big deal. I ran out of water about 1/4 of the way back and was borderline delusional until I broke down and filtered some water through my shirt and into one of the empty water bottles. I may or may not have contracted Giardia, or some other fun waterborne parasite/virus/bacteria/natural killing device.


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I am a freelance writer and photographer, collector of experiences, adventure lover, and outdoor goer.

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