Saturday, June 1, 2013
Idaho: A Place Between Places
What is there to say about Idaho that hasn't already been said?
Much.
But it's a place that seems to actively defy description. It's a place between two places, sandwiched somewhere between the ragged mountains of Western Montana and the high desert of eastern Washington and Oregon.
| Middle Fork Camping |
The rivers are likewise unsure of their identities. They flood, dry up, and flood again. I've only been on a handful; the Lochsa, the Payette, the Middle and Main Salmon. But I've read about them, watched them in videos, and heard about them. My first impressions have always been glazed with the excitement of new friends and adventure, but the rivers are always at the core.
| Katie Chapman in the core of Lochsa Falls |
They are true rivers, flowing with the combined rush of many mountain streams. Somehow, they constrain their volume into narrow, boulder choked riverbeds. An ocean in a streambed.
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| Michael Jorgenson in Dagger Falls, M.F. Salmon |
Even the rocks can't seem to hold still. I'm no geologist, but I know someone who is, and if I had a dollar for every time she said "woah, these rocks are so WEIRD" or just stared at the canyon walls slackjawed on the Salmon, I might just come out of this trip breaking even.
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| The canyon walls were worth the staring. Adam Michel early on the Main. |
What I saw was admittedly just a jumble of rocks, but a jumble of rocks that shifted in hue and texture , until one day on the Main, there was no more jumble, just a big blank face of dark rock.
| Bedrock on the Main Salmon |
In Idaho, you drift, or the world drifts around you. Time stops, or passes by too quickly. Alpine meadows, burn zones, and austere high desert. Wildflowers, sage, and ponderosa.
| Myself finishing out Boulder Creek Katie Chapman Photo |
It's a place to be surrounded... by people and canyon walls.
By waves and nothingness.
Saturday, May 11, 2013
Finals
Yesterday was the last day of finals for a lot of my friends. Not just for the year, but for their entire undergrad career. It was potentially the last "Final Exam" many of them will ever have to take.
Congratulations to all of you!
Recognizing this got me thinking about where I am in life versus where I would be if I were with them right now. Having a minimum of a year and a half left of school while my friends are moving on to careers and the questions that come after graduating is daunting and a little discouraging, but looking back I don't see any room for regret. I may have stopped going to school (temporarily), but that doesn't mean I stopped learning.
While most of my exploits since I left the traditional undergraduate pursuit behind can be found in the archives of this blog, this post serves as a photodump/chronicle of just some of the highlights.
Dec. 31, 2011: Inspired by Scott Martin and with the help of several other talented paddlers/photographers/designers I released Issue 1 of The Dirtbag's Guide to Whitewater
May 18, 2012: After returning to the PNW to set eNRG Kayaking up for a successful summer season, I took my first lap down the Little White Salmon River. The level was 3.7 feet. I was more gripped than I had ever been on a river and ended the day with a skirt implosion and far more flips than I felt comfortable with.
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| Boulder Sluice |
Days later I spent an extended weekend in beautiful British Columbia with Kate Daniel. The highlight of which was easily Captain Holiday's incredible hospitality.
May 28, 2012: A return to the Little White Salmon where I snapped a paddle, followed by a scout of Metlako with Steve Fisher and crew for the now infamous Contour duo drop. 2 days later, I paddled over the lip, tucked up tight, and fell 80-something feet.
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| Ethan Smith Photo |
June 14, 2012: I returned home and embarked on my first source to sea kayaking expedition. It would also be my first overnight self-support kayak trip. I had far more food than I needed, and there was much less water in the river than we expected. Despite this (or perhaps because of it) the 2012 Source to Sea Expedition of the Cheticamp River in Nova Scotia is a mission I will never forget. Thanks to Ben Schott for the invite, Mike Mainer for joining us, and Catharine Hull for driving shuttle and convincing her mother we were worthy of sleeping in the gorgeous camp!
| Mainer finding the line (I was dragging WAY behind at this point) Ben Schott Photo |
August 2, 2012: Amidst a low water summer filled with raft guiding at Whitewater Challengers Black River (A place I will always consider my second home) and Bottom Moose laps, I found my way to the Ottawa River and learned that, given a big enough wave, even I can get some air.
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| Garb+Jed+Me= Still mediocre at playboating Chris Morelli Photo |
Somewhere in the transition of late summer to early fall, I got my first laps on some long coveted ADK classics. Great Falls on the Black, Twin Falls of the Grass, the Raquette, and the Moshier Spillway.
| TAV doesn't paddle down the river, the river carries him wherever he wants to go. Grass River, NY |
| Dylan Cobb entering the Tubs on the Raquette, NY |
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| The water pretty much pushed you where you want to go, but that's hard to trust at this point... Moshier Spillway, NY Ben Schott Photo |
September 19, 2012: Alan Panebaker drowned in a sieve on the Upper Pemi in NH. While this day will always be filled with a great sadness, it also will always remind me of the incredible and inspirational life Alan led. From the start, he was one of my favorite people to paddle with, and every time I reach a milestone in my life, I remember his advice to "remember the little people."
| Alan finishing up the Moshier spillway in style. Thanks for all the memories. |
September 20, 2012: I packed my car and headed south, then further south, then even further south, and finally west and gradually north. To sum it up nicely: 3 days on the Upper Gauley, a week in the Nantahala Gorge, 1 lap on the Nantahala Cascades, a busted paddle, 1 lap on the Ocoee, first legal beer El Rancho in Durango, CO, sunset in Arches National Park, sunrise over the Bonneville Salt Flats, Sunset and rise over Crater Lake, a scout of Toketee Falls, and too many hours in the car.
Mid-October: Joined Steve Fisher for the PNW Congo Premiere Tour, rallying from a HIGH water trip down the Hood River to Boise, to Jackson, and back to Boise. Let's just say that Jackson was cool, but Boise knows how to party.
Thanksgiving 2012: An incredible feast with Kate Daniel and family. I really can't say enough good things about these folks.
December 21, 2012: My first run over Celestial Falls, followed shortly after by my second. It was at a great flow and Adam Elliot and John Edwards were probably the best people I could have done it with. Plus a sweet crew of photographers was on scene.
Christmas 2012: My first christmas away from home couldn't have felt more at home. Katie Rogers and family is another group of people that are truly indescribably kind and generous. Plus an East Fork of the Lewis paddle!!
New Years Day, 2013: Despite an extraordinary hangover, I joined John, Cat, and Mike for a celebration of the new year on a very snowy and cold Middle White Salmon.
March 27th, 2013: The sun popped out, and we all got bold. I joined forces with Harrison Rea to take Gus Kilgore and Kyle Gnarsper down Celestial Falls. Things didn't go as smoothly as we had hoped, but no one was injured. As far as I know, Gnarsper is the first to go for a half hail mary in a creek boat...
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| Harrison lining it up on his second lap. |
Easter 2013: Escaping from work early, I met Harrison Rea and Dan Phillips for Punchbowl Falls on Eagle Creek. Harrison 45ed and bloodied his nose, I got twisted midway down and wrenched my shoulder pretty badly. Metlako looked too good to pass up though, so I headed down to the quiet pool above, this time alone.
| Harrison Rea Photo |
April 13, 2013: The Dirtbag's Guide Issue 5 is released. It receives over 5,000 hits in under a week.
I was out of paddling commission for about 3 weeks waiting for my shoulder to heal, and decided to test it at the Northwest Creeking Competition. April 20th and 21st brought with them an incredible sense of relief as I got my shoulder back into the swing of things. Plus Canoe & Kayak published my coverage of the event!
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| By Canyon Creek the second day, I was feeling pretty good... Adam Elliot Photo |
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| John and Johnny headed for the put in boof. Kim Becker Photo |
These highlights say nothing of the great people I've met along the way, the satisfaction of overcoming the challenges of the "real world" college no longer shelters me from, and all the awesome things I don't have exact dates on. Thank you to everyone who has supported me, bought me beer, let me sleep on your couch/guest bed/floor, and listened to my ridiculous rants.
Stay tuned for a Lochsa trip report this time next week!
| This view will never get old. Mt. Hood from WA. |
| Eli Nicholson surrounded by the kind of canyon the PNW is famous for. |
| Steve Fisher gets rowdy off the water as well as on. |
| An hour and a half from Portland, might as well be another planet. Mike Braun Photo |
| Here kitty-kitty |
| Kay, Megan, and Willa underneath North Silver Creek |
| Mike Braun going for the fun line at Alder Creek on the Sandy River |
| The sea is a good place to reflect |
| Adam Elliot perched above the East Fork of the Lewis, patiently awaiting the shot. |
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| Raging Metlako |
| Follensby Pond, NY |
| A tough hike on its own, the loop to Kings and back up the Wilson River trail was the hardest hike I've ever done. Mike enjoying the pain train. |
| Sunrise on Saddle Mountain. Do it. |
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
The year so far...
Straight to the point: The last few months have been busy and exciting.
While a variety of easier Class 3-4 rivers made up the first month or two, in March I found myself once again at the lip of Celestial Falls. It's about as clean as any 45 foot waterfall can be, and Harrison made a second lap look super appealing.

The next day I rallied ahead of the racers at the Upper Wind Festival with Benny Small to get a couple shots. The Upper Wind is a great class 4+ race course with continuous waves, holes, and rocks to dodge. We posted up just below Ram's Horn, one of the steepest rapids on the run, although definitely not the hardest.
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| Dropping into the meat |
| Kim Becker charging hard to stay ahead of the Nicole Mansfield/Katrina Van Wijk Duo |
| The lead-in to Ram's Horn, note the gnar gash on Paddler #1! |
As much fun as paddling is, it doesn't pay the bills. So I spent the majority of my time working at the Portland Aquarium.
| That is an octopus arm. |
| Lurking hard... |
Meanwhile, my car was breaking down. Time to find a new grand investment. And by that I mean a car that won't breakdown within a year for under about a grand. As always, the internet provided, and I got hooked up with this sweet rig!
| Mazda B2000 Pickup, better known as Maria. It was at this moment I fell in love... |
A photo mission out to the coast the first night I got her seemed like the perfect test. Besides a brief interruption of my sleep by a very friendly police officer ("No camping in city limits...but you can drive a mile that way and nobody will give you problems") and an apparently murderous forest, the mission was a great success.
As it turns out, I still don't have an answer as to whether a tree falling in the forest with no one around to hear it does or does not make a noise. I do, however, know that a tree falling in the forest will obliterate a trail whether there's anyone around to hear it or not.
Also, trees are really big.
After dodging that (wooden) bullet, Harrison Rea called me about running Punchbowl Falls on Eagle Creek. It's one of the most visually appealing waterfalls I've ever seen, so that answer was a no-brainer. There were 2 other questions that required a bit more contemplation: How to get out of work on Easter Sunday, and whether or not I'd run Metlako, the 80+ foot spout shortly below Punchbowl.
A slow day at the Aquarium and some begging answered the first question, but I was still unsure about the second. I had done it once before, but only with people who could offer some guidance and safety. The mental pressure had me pretty maxed out without even considering running a 35 footer just before. I decided to decide at the overlook, after getting an idea of how much water would be in the creek, and to decide again after seeing how Punchbowl worked out.
| Harrison had a sweet line, but busted his face a bit. Dan Phillips Photo |
| I thought I was having a sweet line, but got rotated and busted my shoulder a little (more than I thought) Dan Phillips Photo |
Unwilling to take another hit to his face, Harrison opted out of Metlako, despite perfect flows. I was left with a tough choice, but opted to paddle down into the quiet gorge alone. Harrison and Dan would be unable to do anything to help except run down trail in the fading light and call for a rescue, but I was confident I would nail the line.
| Dropping Metlako for the second time. Harrison Rea Photo |
And with a couple hand strokes midway down, I did just that. It was a great feeling to paddle over such a huge horizon again, and an even better feeling to find my paddle wedged at the lip of the portage rapid just downstream.
Unfortunately, the hit I took at punchbowl had done far more damage to my left shoulder than I had thought. I spent the next day in a sling, and the next 3 weeks trying to recover in time for the Northwest Creeking Competition. (<-- By Eric Adsit, hey, I know that guy!) I also published Issue 5 of The Dirtbag's Guide to Whitewater.
When I finally got back in a boat, things felt good. Really good.

When I finally got back in a boat, things felt good. Really good.

To the left, John Edwards on Sunset Falls
To the right, Benny Small planting a solid one on Champagne
Everything went as smoothly as I could have asked. 3 laps down the East Fork, a rowdy night amongst new friends, and a solid lap down Canyon Creek at a great flow had me stoked on boating and boating culture. Since then, I've been taking as many photos as possible on the familiar runs.
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| Nate Merrel taking headed into Swizzle Sticks |
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| John Edwards on Big Kahuna |
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| Tony on the same |
| Stacked action for Gus Kilgore and Eli Nicholson on Champagne/Hammering Spot |
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| The 'Illusive' Gnarsper on the same |
| Up |
| and down |
| For hazy vistas and really tasty peanut butter honey burritos... |
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